Saturday, October 19, 2013
Monday, October 14, 2013
Re-Wire, Re-Started - Resistor Board for Sensors
For the DL1 and most ECU's you need to run resistors on most temp sensor power wires so that they can read the voltage well enough. With ECU's they have this in the ECU but with the DL1 you need to run resistors on each sensor at some point.
Previously i had resistors wired the resistors into each of the plugs near the sensors and run three wires to the plug and then two into the sensor with the resistor going onto the 5v power wire.
What i have noticed is that over time these resistors can break at the plug and i never really liked this way because if the resistor breaks the readings on the logger and dash go haywire for all sensors.
Now i can run the sensors into the ECU and run a Can to Serial cable out to the dash/DL1 but you can only have a certain number of sensors and these are fixed. The other option is using up the outputs from the ECU but then it limits you with what you want to do. The new DL1 and Dash 2 are actually CAN so this is a lot better if you are buying the new models and the dash is also able to change how it displays.
What i have done this time though is create a little board and soldiered the resistors and wires to the board, this can run close to the DL1 and not be affected by vibration or every time you pull the plug on and off.
Here is a shot of the little board i made up for the DL1
Red wire is the 5v wire coming from the DL1 and the other colors are for each of the different sensors.
This also means i cut down on running 3 wires all the way to each sensor (or those that only need 2)
Only issue is i had already run the wires so i will have wasted some wire but i think this is a lot better way of doing it.
Previously i had resistors wired the resistors into each of the plugs near the sensors and run three wires to the plug and then two into the sensor with the resistor going onto the 5v power wire.
What i have noticed is that over time these resistors can break at the plug and i never really liked this way because if the resistor breaks the readings on the logger and dash go haywire for all sensors.
Now i can run the sensors into the ECU and run a Can to Serial cable out to the dash/DL1 but you can only have a certain number of sensors and these are fixed. The other option is using up the outputs from the ECU but then it limits you with what you want to do. The new DL1 and Dash 2 are actually CAN so this is a lot better if you are buying the new models and the dash is also able to change how it displays.
What i have done this time though is create a little board and soldiered the resistors and wires to the board, this can run close to the DL1 and not be affected by vibration or every time you pull the plug on and off.
Here is a shot of the little board i made up for the DL1
Red wire is the 5v wire coming from the DL1 and the other colors are for each of the different sensors.
This also means i cut down on running 3 wires all the way to each sensor (or those that only need 2)
Re-Wire, Re-Started - ECU Connector
I have replaced all of the pins into the ECU connector plug and using the 22 awg mill spec wire along with the Mil spec shielded wire.
I have labeled each wire and also noted down each pin location for any fault finding latter on.
I have labeled each wire and also noted down each pin location for any fault finding latter on.
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Re-Wire, Re-Started - Center Console
Wiring up the power to each of the circuit breakers, here is a daisy chain i made up to go into the relays
Starting to pull together the
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