I ordered a flex fuel sensor to install so I can check the ethanol content of my fuel on the dash.
All up was $100delivered which is a lot cheaper then Haltech or Zeitronix are asking for them. I am going to pot the wires in and install onto a Deutsch DTM 3 pin connector.
Part Number is Continental Ethanol (Flex Fuel) Content Sensor 13577394.
Tonight I finished off branch one. This is the branch that goes under the plenum and across the front of the motor.
It holds the injectors, IACV, TPS, Intake Tmp, Knock, VTC, CAS, Boost, Water Tmp, Water Tmp Exit and a spare circuit for another sensor as well as a spare to run a crank trigger.
This means if I want to add something latter I can easily.
Well after a couple of good weekends I have managed to crank the car over and test the wiring circuits.
I am still a while off finishing the wiring however am in the process of now removing the entire loom and covering it with motorsport military grade heat shrink (SE28, Raychem).
This was a step I took as I wanted to ensure everything worked before covering it all up.
With the wiring I had some issues early on with the ignition circuit and what I thought was a faulty ignitor but after purchasing another I worked out it was a grounding issue and quickly fixed.
Next I found I had the pins on the injectors and ignition around the wrong way as I thought the cylinders went 1234 from the firewall but its actually the other way around.
Following that I decided I wasnt going to run a crank and cam trigger just yet but I will leave the extra shielded wire in the loom just in case. As a result I had to rewire the shielded wires for the Nissan CAS.
I must not have prepared the paint well enough around where the roll cage was welded to the chassis as after 18mths it was showing some signs of rust coming through the paint.
Rather than leave it I took the opportunity to touch it up and sand tje affected areas right back, treat the surface and repaint.
This afternoon I managed to hook up and test the power circuit and Isolation switch. After a little trouble at first with the switch I swapped the cut out and on buttons over and it worked.
The dash, dl1, front lights and all the acc and engine power works.
Still lots more to do but this was an important and significant step in getting the car back on the track.
I have had some trouble finding large round NC and NO switches for the battery isolation on and off switches. I have gone with some simple square ones and had to paint one green.
I used some left over model paint which was the right colour.
